Serpico Cabernet Sauvignon - 2021

95 Points
Picked at a potential alcohol of 13.2%, the fruit was dried 34 days, losing 30% in weight, then destemmed, crushed and fermented; matured in 80% new and 20% one-year-old French oak for 18 months. As with Amarone (its inspiration), this was picked earlier than if fermented immediately. That creates a tussle between the leafy, herbal side of the grape and the concentrated intensity after dehydration. It’s an intriguing tussle though. Green peppers, bracken and sage, liqueur cherries, dried fig, master stock spices, Averna, crème de cassis. It’s supple and sweet fruited, richly textured and full, though not cloying.
Marcus Ellis, Halliday, July 2025

94 Points
We are into the Mitolo big guns here, a collection from the superb 2021 vintage, one of McLaren Vale’s best. For those wondering, yes, it is named after Detective Frank Serpico of the NYPD, famous for fighting corruption back in the Sixties and celebrated in both book (by Peter Maas) and film, both of which are seriously good (no spoilers, of course, but from memory, the poor bloke was shot in the face for his troubles, by fellow cops, but fortunately survived – so okay, possibly a small spoiler). What has a New York cop got to do with a Cab from McLaren Vale? This is made by the apassimento method, which the team see as going against the grain, just like Serpico. Apassimento is where the harvested grapes are left to dry and concentrate, upping the intensity. The oak, for a couple of years’ maturation, is a mix of new and older French. Under diam. Deep garnet hue, the nose exhibits an array of aromas, with notes of black fruits, bay leaves, chocolate, warm earth, cigar boxes, aniseed, Bovril and oak influence. This wine offers, what one of our cricket commentators might call, the corridor of Cabernet concentration. Powerful stuff. There is quite a surprisingly supple texture here, with very good length and focus. Years of pleasure ahead here, at least ten to twelve.
Marcus Ellis, Halliday, July 2025

92 Points
Dark, brooding aromas of blackberry, mulberry, sweet spice, dried herbs, cocoa powder and bramble. Full-flavoured, dark fruited, powerful and structured. Plum, blackberry and dark cherry are at the core and the tannins and acidity bring a decent amount of structure, savouriness and serious mouth-feel. Big time cabernet.
Aaron Brasher, The Real Review, November 2024

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